What Are Exosomes — And Are They Worth the Hype?

I’ve been asked about exosomes more times in the last six weeks than almost anything else. This is probably down to the SkinPen Elite UK launch (we’ve upgraded our microneedling). Practitioners and patients alike are becoming increasingly aware of exosomes. It’s likely due to social media presence and the time of year (it’s microneedling szn).

So let me give you the honest version — what they actually are, what they can do, and how we use them at Ametrine.

So — What Actually Are Exosomes?

Exosomes are tiny vesicles — essentially microscopic communication packages — released naturally by cells in the body, particularly stem cells. I imagine them a bit like the balls you get in bubble tea that pop when you bite them. Think of them as biological messengers. Exosomes carry proteins, growth factors, and signalling molecules from one cell to another, telling surrounding cells to repair, regenerate, and produce more of the good stuff your skin needs.

They’re not stem cells. They don’t contain live cells at all. What they do contain is a concentrated payload of regenerative signals, which is what makes them so interesting in aesthetics.

In a clinical setting, we use highly purified exosome formulations that are applied to the skin. Because they’re so small, they penetrate deeply — but only when the skin’s surface is slightly opened. Which brings me to why we combine them with microneedling.

How We Use Exosomes at Ametrine

At Ametrine, we don’t offer exosomes as a standalone treatment because there’s no point; putting them neat onto the skin would not allow them to go deeper to where they’re needed. We use them as an additional part of our microneedling protocol, applying them during and after the SkinPen microneedles have created those controlled micro-channels in the skin. This is deliberate. The micro-channels allow the exosomes to travel deeper into the dermis, where the real regenerative work happens.

The result is a treatment that combines the collagen-stimulating effect of microneedling with the cellular repair and anti-inflammatory signalling of exosomes. They work in synergy — and what we’ve seen in clinic since introducing this combination has been unreal.

Steph, our skin specialist and microneedling lead, is particularly enthusiastic about this one, and she doesn’t get excited about treatments lightly. When she started to see differences in healing time and texture, we knew it was worth adding to our protocols. We used to use PRP (platelet-rich plasma) instead of exosomes, but we have now pretty much moved entirely to exosomes.

What Can Exosomes Actually Improve?

Based on both the evidence and what we’ve seen in the clinic, exosome treatments — when delivered correctly — can help with:

  • Skin texture and smoothness
  • Collagen and elastin support (gradual, not instant)
  • Post-inflammatory redness and hyperpigmentation
  • Down time after microneedling.
  • Early signs of skin ageing — fine lines, dullness, loss of firmness
  • Acne scarring — particularly textural improvement
  • Hair loss or thinning.

What they won’t do is add volume, lift sagging skin, or replace the need for other treatments. Exosomes are regenerative — they support your skin’s own biology. They’re not a substitute for structural work like filler or collagen stimulators like Sculptra.

Who Benefits Most From This Treatment?

In clinic, the clients who tend to get the most from exosome microneedling are those who:

  • Have skin that feels dull, congested, or stuck — despite a good skincare routine
  • Are you dealing with acne scarring, post-inflammatory marks, or uneven texture
  • Want to improve skin quality without dramatic intervention
  • Are in their 30s or 40s and starting to notice the skin changing in quality, not just in lines
  • Have had treatments elsewhere and want to support and extend those results
  • Combining other regenerative treatments such as polynucleotides or Sculptra.

It also works really well as a post-treatment recovery support — the anti-inflammatory properties help skin calm and heal more efficiently after procedures.

What to Expect: Sessions, Timeline, Results

Results from exosome microneedling build gradually. Most clients see an improvement in glow and skin texture within the first week — but the real structural changes (collagen remodelling, improved firmness) develop over four to eight weeks. For best results, we recommend a course of three to six sessions spaced three to six weeks apart.

The treatment itself takes around 45 minutes. There’s some redness and mild swelling immediately after — typically settling within 24 to 48 hours. When I had my treatment (of which I loved!) I found my skin felt a bit like it had a mild sunburn. Following the session, we would recommend you don’t use any skincare for the next 48 hours, only wash with water and use the SkinPen lift and rescue tubes that will be provided in the clinic. The only exception to this is if you use Biojuve, which can be used safely 24 hours post-microneedling.

How Do Exosomes Compare to Polynucleotides and Sculptra?

This is a question I get a lot — so here’s a simple way to think about it.

Sculptra uses PLLA (poly-l-lactic acid) and targets the deeper tissues, the deep dermis. Sculptra builds on the collagen levels in the skin, creating lift, hydration and skin smoothness. Sculptra is the base layer of your skin cake.

Polynucleotides are DNA-based biostimulators — they repair and regenerate at a cellular level, particularly brilliant under the eyes and for fragile skin. Polynucleotides work on the middle layer of your skin cake.

Exosomes sit in a slightly different space; they’re about cellular communication and signalling. They’re at their best when delivered via microneedling, because the combination allows them to reach deeper tissue layers. In some clients’ plans, we’ll use all three at different stages. They complement rather than compete. Exosomes and microneedling really sit on the top layer, the icing on the cake.

Not sure which is right for you? That’s exactly the conversation we have in consultations. We’ll look at your skin properly and build a plan that makes sense for what’s actually going on.

The Ametrine Verdict

We don’t add treatments to our menu unless we’ve tested them ourselves and seen the evidence. Exosomes cleared both bars. The combination with microneedling is, in our clinical experience, genuinely better than microneedling alone — and for the right skin concerns, the results are quietly remarkable.

If you’re curious whether exosome treatment is the right next step for your skin, come and have a conversation. No pressure, no product push — just an honest assessment and a plan built around you.

Book a consultation at Ametrine or take our free online assessment to find out if exosome treatment is right for your skin.

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We are dedicated to helping you feel like the best version of yourself.
We believe in creating an inclusive space where everyone is welcome to embark on their personal journey into self-love.
Our team of passionate practitioners is deeply invested in your personal journey.
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